A day in Medieval Vienna

31 January 2026

I arrived at the subway station Stephansplatz, where my first stop was not the famous cathedral, but a less known location underground, directly within the subway station: Vergilius Chapel, an underground chapel built in the 13th century. The remains of the wall paintings depict equal-armed crosses within circles, which can be interpreted, according to C. G. Jung ("Man and His Symbols"), as a symbol of the union between the material and the spiritual - while the more familiar Latin cross puts a greater emphasis on the spiritual component (ibid.). This cross-variant is surely fitting for a place that may have been originally intended as underground crypt for the remains of Saint Coloman.

 

Equal-armed cross within a circle, Vergilius Chapel, Vienna

Being already at Stephansplatz, I had to take a quick look at the cathedral of course, but only from the outside since it was the day of the inauguration of the new archbishop.

St. Stephens Cathedral, viewed from the southwest. A splendid example of Gothic architecture, and right now even without any scaffolding on that side!

I continued to Schwedenplatz, where I ate lunch and passed more by chance than intention St. Rupert's Church, one of the oldest churches in Vienna (the title of "oldest church" is disputed).

St. Rupert's Church, viewed from the south-west.

The square around the church is silent, apart from a couple of passers-by I'm the only one here. It's probably much more crowded here in summer.

Statue of St. Rupert, detail from the northern side of the tower

After lunch I walk by Maria am Gestade, a nice Gothic church in the inner city.

Maria am Gestade, view from the west
Maria am Gestade, southern entrance

From the middle ages, I get unexpectedly thrown back into Antiquity, as a statue of my favorite goddess near the church catches my eye. Turns out, it's a promotion for the European congress of radiology taking place this year in Vienna.

Am Gestade, Athena and her owl. The goddess herself had the epithet "glaukopis" (ancient Greek: "owl-eyed"), maybe referring to her bright, piercing stare - a quite fitting patron for radiologists.

But back to Medieval Vienna! My next stop is a pretty inconspicuous house at Tuchlauben - only a plaque on the wall indicates that it contains a museum: The Neidhart Festsaal. The doors are closed even during opening hours, you need to ring the bell to get in. The museum is one room on the upper floor - but despite the small size it's well worth the visit. The room was a dance hall dating back to the 15th century and contains wall paintings referring to scenes from 13th century minstrel Neidhart von Reuental.

Nobles walking out of the castle.
Dancing scene.
Snowball fight and sleigh ride.
Kissing couple and theft of the mirror.

By the way, Neidhart Festsaal is temporarily closed from 2nd March 2026, so you need to hurry up when you still want to visit it. I end my tour at the Wien Museum Karlsplatz, where it take a stroll through the part of the exhibition dedicated to the middle ages.

Pavise with depiction of St. George, 15th century.

If you like that pavise, you can take a look at more of these shields in the online collection of the Wien Museum.

Statues from St. Stephen's cathedral at the Wien Museum: Duke Rudolf IV and his wife Catherine of Bohemia with their parents: Emperor Charles IV and Blanche of Valois (right) and Duke Albert II and Joanna von Pfirt (left).

 

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